1. Step back in time…
In Belgrade, it’s easy to get a sense of how things used to be. In the streets, art-nouveau meets stripped-back brutalism – an architectural time map of the city’s tumultuous past. But it doesn’t stop there.
What was once the site of a canon attack on Belgrade, is now Topider Park – a peaceful area for river walks and picnicking, close to the luxurious neighbourhood of Dedinje. It’s hard to imagine this spot as anything other than idyllic. But a visit to the Palace of Prince Milo will give you a glimpse of past uprisings against the Turks.
Continue to satisfy your taste for history by sampling authentic Serbian cuisine. Look out for mouth-watering traditional dishes like evapii – pork or beef sausages grilled with diced onion, creamy kajmak and ajvar, a red pepper sauce.
Traditional, family-run restaurants are scattered all over the city. But at Dva Jelena, you can savour superb, yet homely Serbian cuisine with a difference, as violinists weave around the tables. For a sweet fix, hunt for local pekaras, or bakeries. Mounds of small jam-filled doughnuts, vanilice, are a sweet staple served mostly in Western Serbia.
For an equally authentic dinner spot, head to Zavicaj. Think waiters clad in Serbian dress. Walls adorned with local artwork. And rustic dishes served on chequered tablecloths. Sit and savour this slice of Serbia’s rural heritage in the whirl of the bustling city.